Video- Driving in Kerio

Video- Down in the Valley

This is video I took on a day trip to Karbarnet last February during the dry season.  From Eldoret one drive to Iten and the down into Kerio Valley and across.  This is a small river which has dug a deep gorge. We stopped to see it and look for crocodiles.

Video- Road flooded

mtoto

you, mtoto touch my arm

wondering about the hair

that grows straight and soft

over skin

that despite equatorial sun

is still white

pink really

because blood runs below

and in places blue

where veins and weakness show through

in this way you remind me

it's hard to forget my skin

the friends i’ve made here

can pick me out

wandering purposefully

in these walking streetside crowds

from a kilometer away

you, mtoto ask me about flying

as if i had the magic of wings

but it’s not magic it’s money

its magic of brutal history

and i trip over words

tracing circles backwards

bumpily landing

on air stripped of theories

the currency of my thought

standing flapping

ragged from flight

you, mtoto keep looking

from where you lay in the grass

or run on the dusty shoulder

miguu mifupi inakimbia

push your circle toy with the stick

or from where you tend your little goats

raise your eyebrows together with chin

saying yes

saying hey

saying we know

or whatever it is you are saying

that i don’t yet know

you, mtoto keep looking

at me

my white skin

and soft straight hair

turning grey

keep singing your

howareyous

for bob and biscuits, viatu

for joy or horror of the passing ghost

keep smiling and laughing

staring

as i stutter in solidarity’s language

i am trying

me, mtoto, najaribu

Hiking on the edge of Kerio Valley

The APATH community here in Eldoret is usually in flux.  Just a few days ago a couple of good friends who we have gotten to know the last 7 months returned to the US.  We will miss them and wish them luck in the next adventure.  On a recent Sunday we drove the 30 minutes to Iten and a restaurant/resort called Kerio View.  We took a steep hike down the valley, then walked over and up to a waterfall.  It was nice to get out and spend the day with friends.

Coming down from the trail to the falls

Looking out on the farms and larger valley in the distance

Overlooking to falls

standing in the cave looking out; our guide follows as we turn back (he talked of studying hard to become a lawyer someday

out our banda lunch at Kerio View

Just a Saturday

Deb and her new $5 cactus

loving it

bird of paradise plant

we've been adding plants here and there

our neighbor dog Trey, who comes over sometimes

'ammock beneath guava and loquat trees

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My Neice's Photos

We had lost our camera a few months into 2012.  It's not actually completely lost, but there is slim chance we'll get it back. So when we returned for our visit to the US in March, we borrowed a camera from Deb's family.  They lent us the small point and shoot that our 7 yr old niece had been using. We kept of few of these gems.  Thanks, C, for letting us use your camera!

More

I am hoping to write more and write more openly. We'll see how this goes.  Here's an example, something I wrote on the plane back to the U.S. for a visit.

The day I returned to the States I nearly stepped on a dead dog. I was startled and stared at the pink tongue lolling out its mouth, walking on as the usual dust rose from my footsteps. It clung to my shoes as it clung to everything that was roadside, even though this road was paved. My flight took me up and away into the night to the big bursting city where people took their leave.  Another jet, larger, outfitted and stocked, seemed to move with a power that could send us to the moon. On this giant craft I left Kenya after 6 months there.  On many flights many places you can see that there are those coming and those going. A certain mix of people from that place taking off and those who have perhaps enjoyed their stay. This jet though seemed to just carried those headed home.  It was a plane where quick quips were exchanged about where the new school was built or what mission was accomplished. Perhaps we could have talked about the animals.  What rarity was seen or nearly seen on that safari. I am no different, just choosing to keep my chatter to myself.  When asked, my documents in hand, what I was doing in Kenya I replied, “volunteering”. And I, too, could talk about seeing the wild life. I felt in a way there was more than just carved wooden giraffes wrapped in newsprint under arm that we were taking. There’s much we are taking along with-wire toys in suitcases, carefully wound in kangas, soapstone hippos padded with kikoy, handformed clay bead jewelry or colorful jewels made of rolled up Oprah magazines. We were taking pride and lessons of thankfulness, of whatever ideas and feeling we wanted to leave with.  Did I give or only take? Am I leaving or coming home?  What am I more disgusted by.

Amsterdam Airport

Here the fly in the pristine porcelain urinal is painted or pressed on. The stink is flushed away by machine.  Here the sun comes up over a field of aircrafts and it makes the blinking neon sculpture pale. The sculpture blinks the word HA over and over. It is laughing at something.

Here I am not stared at, barely noticed even. I am no title of tribe or race or status to be called to.  I am just someone with enough money to be going somewhere far.

Here there is no dust.

January Gallimaufry Photos

Giant Tree seen on New Year's Eve hike in forest outside Eldoret

Giant tree looking up

Plants at Friends' house where we did some house/dog sitting

Literally House and Dog sitting

Foot Look

Dog Sitting Miwa

Ben testing the weight of Bananas, which ripened at house while we sat

New House Kitchen by candle

Time, to Cook

Lately there have been a few setbacks in regards to my work prospects here in western Kenya.  I had been hired to help with a research study not far from Eldoret, but there seemed to be issues with the partnership or the organizations- the organization that hired me may not be involved after all. Thus, I am going back to the drawing board. In the mean time I am continuing to work with streetkids at the drop in center, take charge of any household task/need, pursue fluency in Kiswahili, read all that I can (novels, Kenyan news/blogs/culture), try to study my nursing texts, run, and cook.

I have the time to cook here, so I have been diving in.  One of the objectives is to get proficient at a few Indian dishes. I am not sure what I have previously written regarding the presence of Kenyans of Indian descent, but they make up a small minority. Their influence is much greater and this proves true in restaurant choices and ingredients sold at groceries. It is very easy to come by anything used in Indian cooking. Another driver of my attempt at learning this tasty style of cooking is that there are two “curry trees” in our yard.  The man we rent the house from pointed this out to us and I promptly made use of this new novelty. One of the things I enjoy about learning this style of cooking is the use of fresh ingredients and a large array of spices which are balanced beautifully. This dishes I have cooked thus far begin with heating whole cumin seeds, and/or back mustard seeds, and/or coriander, and/or cardamom. I have procured a pestle and mortar and I love that right away as I get down to cooking the kitchen is bathed is fantastic aromas.  Bam! I am cooking!  It is not as though I am cooking Indian meals every night though.  I try to switch it up. One can at times find rice noodles and coconut milk is here as well.  I have found dry beans which with some coaxing, can pass for black beans I'd make in the U.S. I think I'll branch out and do some dishes with red beans soon. Here’s some photos:

New Year's Meal

Noodles, Veggies, Oyster Mushrooms, Fried tofu,Toasted Cashews, Cilantro, Lime

Coconut Curried Chicken w Added Mango

Dahl

Black beans, veggies, rice

First meal in new house- Veggies, Green Thai Style Curry

Illin

One thing that is certainly not taken for granted here it seems, is good health. In a way I am reminded of historical letters written in the U.S. in the 1800s, which when read by calm narrators in a Ken Burns type documentary film, always mention health first thing: Dear Wilfred, I hope this letter finds you in good health. It has been a hard winter…  The long greeting when one sees someone one knows here often includes “how is your family”, “how is your place”- Habari ya famalia? Habari ya kuako? I also try to not take good health for granted. I have been increasingly cognizant of health and illness since studying and working in health care. Never before have I been as thankful as now. I think an incident when I had with a high fever last July in Minneapolis and ended up admitted to Abbott NW helped to expand my thankfulness. Here it is full bloom.

A few Saturdays ago I woke up, had some water, and started my day with a run. I had decided to run into town to the place where Tumiani holds some outreach activities- mainly a game of soccer for the streetboys followed by some food. The run to the field where the game is held is probably 5 or 6 miles from the house in Kenmosa. After some time to stretch I was able to join in on the game for a bit. Then I walked into the central part of the town, got a huge bottle of water and walked to meet Deb for a late lunch. I continued to drink a copious amount of fluid that whole afternoon. We arrived back in Kenmosa to the house at 5ish. I began shivering and feeling week almost immediately. Later my fever shot up to 102 or so. For the next three days my temp would begin the day near 99 and later go as high as 102.8. Thankfully our group of friends includes many doctors here and one happened to be staying at the house in Kenmosa also. He, after 3 days of fever recommended to start the course of malaria meds (with a clear head now I should probably have gotten the simple test to confirm- but was willing to do anything at the time). Next I was hit with nasty GI stuff (I’ll refrain from details…)and I was left dehydrated and weak.  The illness seemed to run its course and I spend a week mostly prone, in bed. Once I was feeling normal, it still took a few days to have to energy to carry on with days tasks and not feel exhausted. When Deb came down with a fever a few days later, it seemed to be confirmed- just a nasty virus.  Deb seemed to fight it off a bit better and didn’t seem quite as debilitated. When the illness first started and it was a mystery I felt a bit of concern that may not be present when back in the U.S. It makes me think about health differently and the excellent health care infrastructure in the U.S.

To Health!

Nyumba Mpya Yetu

So, after lots of looking and those types of adventures… We have found a new house to live in.  We have decided to rent it with another couple and another friend who is here until June. There is give and take when comparing it to the house we stayed at for our first 3 ½ months. Here are the things we like about it: We got to choose it- thus it feels like we can create the feel of our home, It is much closer to things, It is a bit more simple- it matches us, It is more economical. We will miss the garden at the last house and living with Billy, but will not miss the feeling of being so far out. The new house is near some other friends’ houses and there is a restaurant and a little fruit vendor within minutes of walking. We are meeting out neighbors here too, which is fun.  It has been a bit stressful to have to get some of the basic household items (the house was not furnished), but we have what we need to take care of basics.  Maybe some chairs for the sitting room soon. Here are some pics.

 

 

 

The Outside (it's the dry season)

Our Bedroom

The front room

Kitchen from the front room (this used to be a wall before we requested some work was done to open up the little kitchen)

Sink (in hallway), toilet, and shower room.

Front Room (not quite as Orange as it appears in the photo)

Holiday Travel Photos

Deb, relaxin'

Deb walking at low tide

View up the beach

Local fishing boat

After some snorkeling on the glass bottom boat

Twiga

Buffalo

Pumba

Near harbor in Mombasa